The Fruits of Yggdrasil

Nicola Mary Christensen-Johnson

Yggdrasil Guest Lodge

Introducing Sacred Bornholm

The Articulation of Love and Responsibility

The Guest Lodge is the first pod to unexpectedly fall from the tree. Why unexpectedly? Because it was not planned as such and, like all unforeseen events, it swept me away towards a new shore of invitation. Yggdrasil Guest Lodge is both a produce of the covid disruptions and a germinating seed of the future.

Early 2020, the renovation of the property converting the farm buildings into an educational retreat centre was finished. The first guest had just arrived for a month-long retreat when we were suddenly rammed into lockdown. All the projects flowing from the vision that brought me to Denmark suddenly vanished in the uncertainties of the pandemic. I immediately sensed that this was a tipping moment, a wake-up call for humanity, and that there would be no going back to business as usual. So, how was I going to reorient myself? How was I going to move through the cycles of order (my original vision), disorder (the covid) and reorder (the new waiting to emerge)? What did I need to let go of so as to welcome the unknown with fresh eyes? The reorientation was all the more urgent since I was not entitled to any of the covid relief funds that might have kept me complacently hibernating, waiting for better days.

The world as a global village imagined in the flourishing economic years of the 90s suddenly shrank in size, in my case, to the island of Bornholm which turned out to be both a container and an incubator. In the midst of the turmoil, I felt safe and held, exactly where I was meant to be, doing what I was meant to be doing, without being able to name the destination of the forthcoming odyssey that would take me across unknown seas.

The first summer of the pandemic Danes were encouraged to holiday in their own country. Bornholm is detached from Denmark and, situated in the Baltic Sea off the Southern tip of Sweden, it soon became an exotic holiday destination. So, I decided to set up a traditional Bed & Breakfast offering visitors an experience of the hidden treasures of Bornholm. I had in mind my own youthful unplanned travels when I would meet wonderful people and found accommodation by asking around or following the ‘vacancy’ signs put out in front of houses.

All this wasn’t without its challenges. The layout of the guest lodge did not meet the social distancing regulations and I had to find a way of holding an open house that respected the basics of a safe bubble whilst accommodating a diversity of opinions and habits, notwithstanding the frustration at being controlled by waves of fear and shame. It was a wonderful practice for learning to articulate love and responsibility: my deep desire to care for people and give them a meaningful experience whilst providing appropriate care in a collectively challenged context. I could not have asked for a better training ground.

Bit by bit, guest by guest, drama by drama, I polished my emerging vision to integrate the principles of sustainability and community life that I value. How could I draw on these principles in terms of managing the property, tending to our basic needs and reimagining the local economy? In many respects, it was a practice of radical simplification stripping away the superfluous to reveal what is of essence so as to live a fulfilling and meaningful life, even in terms of leisure and entertainment. The chaos of the pandemic eventually gave birth to an eco-friendly guesthouse which quickly achieved a recognised sustainability certificate.

The Dilemma of Responsible Tourism

Paradoxically, tourism is far from being a sustainable activity and the impact of mass tourism on Bornholm, mostly coming from the cruise ships regularly pouring out visitors hungry for entertainment, always puts a huge strain on the island. We bear the tension collectively with a welcoming smile on our faces. I don’t think we have to give up entirely on tourism, particularly when it is, despite the burdens, an important source of income. At least not for now. Nonetheless we are invited to bring more awareness to the sector of tourism and the pernicious effects of what is now recognised as overtourism. For this we can draw on our resourcefulness to creatively imagine ways of maintaining harmony and balance without squandering the resources available or destroying nature’s gifts and the cultural inheritance spread across the island.

This is what I am practicing, at my scale, at Yggdrasil Guest Lodge. For instance, I only use eco-friendly products for cleaning and I make all meals from locally sourced products. When I shop, I look at the provenance of goods favouring short circuits of Danish products, extending, when needed, to nearby European goods, grateful for the abundance of what is available on the island, grateful also for the education that enables me to purchase in a responsible way. Finally, I work exclusively with ethical businesses both in terms of products and services, the first choice always being local businesses and then Danish companies.

Radical simplification does not equate austerity. I like to illustrate the joy of mindfully tending to our needs, the impact of lovingly cultivating the land and the soil, the effect of compassionately caring for the social fabric of a community. In this, there are so many wonderful opportunities to practice aligning body, heart and mind.

Staying one or two nights at Yggdrasil Guest Lodge is a favourite for hikers and ramblers either walking the coastal path or crossing the island via the diagonal route. They either want to avoid the overcrowded hostels or take a break from the roughness of outdoor shelters so as to enjoy some quiet time with the luxuries of hot water and comfortable beds.

Since the pandemic Bornholm has become the perfect island for a bicycle holiday. Cyclists leave the car at home or at the departure harbour and snap up the cheap offers on public transport rewarding responsible transportation. Bornholm is surprisingly hilly for a Danish island, particularly in the northern part where the guest lodge is: e-bikes are therefore the preferred option for battling the winds and hills. There are several bike rentals on the island all with competitive prices. At the back of the property in the former barn, there is the perfect bicycle shelter with a charging station.

Finally, the eco-friendly guest lodge is well suited for people eager to experience the quietness of the island and try out an alternative way of holidaying. Being inland, guests appreciate getting away from the bustle of the coastal villages and resorts with their array of urban activities and glittering entertainment. People who need to be here, even if they don’t know why, always find their way to us. That is why I have not fallen for shiny promotion and the fanfare which nowadays, unfortunately, often comes with the territory of eco-friendly holiday resorts. Furthermore, I don’t pay attention to reviews and rankings much preferring the kindness of guests who find words to express their gratefulness or generously offer a silent hug when they leave.

The Art of Hospitality

Yggdrasil Guest Lodge is a small guesthouse with three rooms:

  1. The Pine Tree room with a single bed
  2. The Elm Tree room with twin beds
  3. The Oak Tree room with a double bed.

 

Follow the links to find out more about each room and the essence of the tree it is named after.

The bathroom is not en suite. To ensure privacy, each room is allocated a private room (shower, washbasin and toilet) in the bathroom area.

After a good night of restful sleep, guests start the day with a sumptuous Breakfast made from locally sourced products served, the old-fashioned way, at the table.

The Kitchen boasts stunning views on the surrounding landscape and in the morning hares and deer come to graze on the lawn. Please be aware that the use of the kitchen facilities is not included in the B&B offers. 

Yggdrasil Guest Lodge is close to Østerlars (1,6 km) and in walking distance of the most famous round church of Denmark. It is 5 km to the nearby coastal village of Gudhjem. We are happy to pick up and drop off hikers and people on foot either from a parking along the trails or at the nearest bus station. The walk across the farming land or up the road with heavy luggage and sore feet can be arduous.

The nearest restaurants are in Gudhjem. We offer lifts to and back from the village. You can also pick up a free guest bicycle (unfortunately not electrical).

The Promise of Regenerative Tourism

Over the past years, I have been following the trials in regenerative farming seeking to remedy decades of soil depletion through intensive agriculture, the widespread use of pesticides and the capture of the natural flow of waters. There is a growing awareness of the long-lasting impact of ruthless agrobusiness on the ecosystems and the harm incurred by living organisms, including humans. Shouldn’t we be looking at the effects of overtourism through the same lenses? This got me thinking about the possibility of regenerative tourism. What principles and core actions of regenerative farming might we draw from to imagine new configurations of holiday breaks, travelling the world and learning to rest?

I believe it all starts by a radical simplification of our desires and expectations, a shift from the accumulation of experiences towards dwelling in the fullness of each moment: present moment, holy moment. Radical simplification comes naturally when we develop curiosity and a sincere openness towards life’s invitations. Thus, I have chosen to put silence, stillness and solitude at the heart of my daily practices as a way of honouring the extraordinary within the ordinary or, to be modest and humble, the unordinary hiding in plain sight in the mundane.

Guests are invited to join me in simple activities that help us take a small step towards regenerative tourism.

– Enjoy the night-time silence from 11pm to 6pm: listen to the sounds of nature or gaze into the amazing skies sparkling with stars in the absence of light pollution.

– Put down your mobile phone, forget it in your room and go for a walk in the woods without it.

– All over Denmark, it is prohibited to smoke indoors. If you are a smoker refrain from smoking close to the buildings, find a secluded place and take care of your cigarette butts. There are no ash trays.

– Prioritise self-care and adopt a new practice: ban recreational drugs; consider a responsible consumption of alcoholic beverages (the island has several brewery producing eco-friendly beers for all tastes); visualise a new healthy diet with less meat and locally sourced products; practice an art form or take a prolonged rest in the garden.

– Notice the impact of your thoughts, words and actions on the relational space. Be curious rather than judgemental and discover the ease and joy of being with others in a simple way bringing alive the qualities of reciprocity and solidarity.

– Imagine a bespoke practice of silence and stillness; start with 10 minutes sitting in a quiet space, eyes closed or with a soft gaze, doing absolutely nothing and not feeling guilty about that. Let your thoughts and to-do list float away in the peacefulness of the space.

– Join me for a meditation, sitting for 20 minutes either in the house or in the round church.

– Respect nature’s gifts by actively taking part in recycling and selective waste disposal. Don’t litter and discover the pleasure of gathering litter to dispose of it responsibly. Acts of service are sacred and always rewarding.